Let’s take it from the top literally. The online custom suit wars are heating up and we’re seeing a lot of fallen soldiers in the multiple battles between fit, price, and quality. We offer custom JHilburn suits for guys however when you’re in a store like JosABank, JCrew, Banana Republic, or Men’s Warehouse, what do you look for?


PLEASE consult with us before your purchase a suit more than two sizes too big. Your suit should fit your shoulders straight on, or just about flush with your shoulder’s head. This ensures the chest plate in your suit pairs well with your frame. Also, if you’re not 6’2 and like a more modern-looking suit, purchase R (regular) lengths. This will make a taller guy’s suit come across as more modern and open upsizing options because every shop may not carry a wide variety of L (long) sizes.


Don’t have the waist of your jacket tailored without considering the arms taper. 95% of men’s sport blazers ad suit jackets we see need to be tapered. Does it really make sense to have a tapered body when the sleeves are billowing?

Jacket Length

Your jacket length should meet (-/+.5 inch) your hand’s thumb joint, closest to your thumbnail. At GTDR we shorten and add the natural curve back into the jacket.


Trousers should fit well and should hug your seat, hips, and thighs – not squeeze. Always test the comfort out by sitting down in the trouser. If you feel them squeezing your body in the sitting position, they may rip during normal day-to-day use or while you’re at the next wedding dancing to Uptown Funk. Trousers from a leg diameter perspective should measure about 7.25- 8 inches wide from the side view. This is for normal work/dress attire. Anything under 7 inches is basically skinny and may not be as versatile as needed.

Length-wise, slacks should not fall lower than a half break. Trousers that are too long come across as frumpy and sloppy. Finally, cuffs belong to pleats and flat front trousers have plain hems. I am seeing a resurgence of pleats in Italian fashion circles like Pitti Uomo and have some bespoke trousers samples being stuck to showcase at our shop in the future, stay tuned!